Things Are Not Always as They Seem

Recently I was asked to partake in an unusual wine tasting: two of the five wines on the menu were Tempranillos. What’s so strange about that? Well, what if I told you they were Italian. Yes, Italian Tempranillos! Of course, I couldn’t pass on this offer and was in for a big surprise.

First, a little about the Tempranillo grape. Tempranillo is a “classic” quality grape variety and is used in some of Spain’s best wines. A thick-skinned black grape, it is used to make full-bodied wines and responds wonderfully to French and American oak. It ages tremendously as well as producing young (jovenes) wines. The name “Tempranillo” comes from the Spanish word “temprano,” meaning “early,” and refers to the fact that the Tempranillo grape ripens sooner than the other traditional varietals in Spain. Tempranillo produces expressive and rich wines in La Rioja, where it is commonly blended with other common Spanish varietals including Garnacha Tinta, Mazuela, and Graciano and aged in oak barrels. In other regions, such as Navarra, it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Unlike other classic grape varietals, Tempranillo has a variety of aliases around Spain’s numerous wine regions. In La Rioja, Navarra, Somontano and the Levante (Murcia and Valencia) it is known by its international name, “Tempranillo. ” In La Man cha and Valdepeñas it is known as “Cencibel;” in Cataluña is it labeled “Ull de Llebre” (eye of the hare); “Tinta de Pais” or “Tinto Fino” in Ribera del Duero; “Tinta de Toro” in Toro; and “Tinta de Madrid” in the capital region of the same name. Tempranillo is also used in winemaking outside Spain – in Portugal, Argentina, Mexico, and California. But Italy???

So, I must say that I was quite intrigued when asked to taste (actually, blind taste) a couple of Italian wines whose origins are in the Tempranillo grape. The five wines for this tasting were from the vineyards of Pietro Beconcini. The five wines (and one dessert wine) tasted included:

• 2007 Chianti (Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo, and Malvasia Nera)

• 2004 Maurleo (Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera)

• 2003 Reciso (Sangiovese)

• 2007 IXE (Tempranillo)

• 2005 Vigna Alle Nicchie (Tempranillo)

• 1999 Caratello (Malvasia Bianca, Trebbiano Toscano, San Colombano) – a dessert wine

For those of you who enjoy the wines of Italy you will be quite satisfied with Mr. Beconcini’s wines. For this Spanish wine drinker I must say that I really enjoyed most of his wines. The only wine that seemed a bit “light” to me was the Maurleo. Now, for the Tempranillos. Señor Beconcini does a tremendous job with his Tempranillo wines. To make things more interesting we decided to blind taste the two Italian Tempranillos with a Spanish Tempranillo provided by yours truly, Spanish Wine Guy. I was asked to bring one of my favorite 100% Spanish Tempranillos. I chose the 2005 Condado de Haza from Ribera del Duero. This wonderfully expressive Tempranillo was #34 on the 2008 Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines as well as a recipient of multiple ratings in the low 90′s. So, I figured this was a worthy opponent.

Well, let me just tell you that it was very difficult to identify the Spanish Tempranillo amongst the “imposters.” In the initial tasting it was very difficult to differentiate the two European rival’s wines. Once the three were separated from the rest of the group the differences became a little more apparent. But all in all, the Italian Tempranillo wines were delicious, exhibiting true “Tempranillo” characteristics – ripe red fruit, wild berries, licorice, and espresso. One would be wise to seek out the wines of Pietro Beconcini – the man knows what he is doing!

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