Bodega On The Road: D.O. Manchuela Tasting Lunch

Fresh on the heels of my mammoth Ribera del Duero tasting event I was happy to have received an invitation to a more intimate event one of Charlie Palmer’s NYC restaurants, Aureole. This time I was enticed by a Spanish wine region of which I knew virtually nothing, D.O. Manchuela. The area has recently launched its first foray into the U.S. market (with help from New York public relations company, M. Young Communications) in an effort to bring exposure to a relatively unknown (yet surprisingly fantastic, as you will soon find out) Spanish wine region. But before I jump into the details of my luncheon a few facts about the region are in order.

The D.O. Manchuela was created in the late 1990′s in response to the need for an institution to represent and bring together a group of wineries that were beginning to stand out worldwide for the high quality and uniqueness of its wines. In July 2000, the region was officially recognized as a Spanish D.O., bringing it the benefits and regulations such an appointment entails. A total of 70 municipalities (belonging to the provinces of Cuenca and Albacete) are located in the region of La Manchuela. The area is framed by two rivers – the Jucar and Cabriel – and is favored by very particular soil and climate conditions. The clay-like soil with a limestone base from river sediments collects and maintains rain water before the grapes grow. (Source: Manchuela marketing materials)

Within this area are 30 D.O. wineries producing exciting wines that are finally taking their rightful places on the world’s tables. What makes these wines different and   intruiging? Is it that this area is four times the size of Napa Valley? No. Is it that the region is doing incredible things with Tempranillo (called Cencibel here). Maybe. Is it that the Bobal grape has found a home and folks who know how to bring out its most amazing characteristics? Absolutely! Manchuela has a large number of authorized varietals (8 red and 5 white) and is making some very interesting and friendly wines with them. Of the 85-90% red wine produced here half is from the Bobal varietal. This grape has traditionally been a very difficult one to cultivate and has normally been used as a blending grape or in the production of rosé wines. In the past, the younger vines produced extremely large grapes but as they have aged the yield is now much more conducive to producing 100% varietal wines. These smaller dark blue berries produce wines with intense dark cherry-red color with high tannic content and medium acidity. (See the Zev Robinson trailer below for more information on the Bobal grape.)

Now to the food! While we mingled and met other interested guests we were treated to a choice of two wines (both of which I tried – surprised?) – 2009 Antares Macabeo (white) and 2009 Realce Bobal Rosado (rosé). Two things stood out to me. First, we were already drinking 2009 wines! Second, I had tasted my first 100% Bobal rosé. I have tried a couple of Bobal red wines (one excellent one in Valencia, Spain and one satisfactory one here in the U.S.) but this is how it should taste. Leave it to the experts! Fortunate for me, there was more, much more, to come. Columnist and wine reviewer, Dr. Michael Apstein, then opened the event with a brief history of the Manchuela region and an introduction to its wines. Four courses followed. Let me say that each one seemed to top the last! Here they are:

• Alaskan Spot Prawns (blood orange, cous cous, piquillo peppers, harissa cream sauce) – 2009 Altos del Cabriel Macabeo & 2003 Realce Reserva Bobal
• Achiote Spiced Crusted Hawaiian Escolar (fingerling potatoes, black olives, marcona, caramelized onion broth) – 2007 Azua Bobal Roble & 2008 Quantum (Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon)
• Pennsylvania Venison Loin (celery root puree, cardoons, seckle pear, chestnuts, spiced venison jus) – 2004 Villavid Crianza (Tempranillo) & 2003 Señorío del Júcar Reserva (Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo) 
• Cheese – Cabra & Aged Manchego La Serena – 2006 Azua Bobal Crianza 

The food and paired wines were tremendous (I suspect you figured that out already!). Throughout the lunch event I was honored to sit with some Spaniards with whom I was very taken. Before the event began I met Fernando and his wife, Mercedes, who currently live in Santa Monica. Fernando is from Albecete and was the perfect person to be sitting with as the event wove in and out of food and wine. Finally, next to me sat one of the most charming young ladies you will ever meet. María Álvarez is the export manager for Bodegas Villavid. She has a heart for Manchuela and for its wine. This is what I love about wine. The passion that individuals and communities (many of the wineries in Manchuela are cooperatives) have for their homeland and their wine become all the  more evident when you partake of the fruit (literally) of the labors. Incidentally, very few of these wines are currently available in the U.S. and these wineries (including Villavid) are seeking importers. Feel free to reach out to them.

All in all, I could not have asked for a more perfect event – great food, incredible wines, new friends, and a newfound appreciation for another Spanish wine region. I would recommend to anyone stepping out of his or her comfort zone and trying something new. I suspect that you will be glad that you did.

Life is short. Drink great wine!

Documentary – La Bobal y otras historias del vino (La Bobal and other stories about wine) from Zev Robinson on Vimeo.

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