Featured Winery: Bodega Bermejo (Lanzarote)

I have been holding on to a couple of wines for about a year now just waiting for the right moment to open them. In my 2010 effort to drink as many wines from the 70 D.O.s as possible, I was ecstatic to find wine(s) from a region of which I was completely unfamiliar – Lanzarote. One of the Canary Islands, Lanzarote, is truly a bizarre and interesting wine region.

Wine-making in the Canary Islands began at the end of the 15th Century after the conquest of the islands Gran Canaria, Tenerife, and La Palma. During the 16th Century, interestingly enough, wine was the most important export. Although Lanzarote did not have proper conditions for vine cultivation (low rainfall and trade winds) they adapted wine-making techniques which has led to the reputation as “the vineyard of the impossible.”

Lanzarote was the last island of the Canaries to enter into wine growing and boasts the oldest cellar in the islands – El Grifo – which has been continuously producing wine since 1775. The land on the island is volcanic, and the vines normally grow in a “hole” surrounded by a semicircular stone wall that protects the vines from the wind. Rains are scarce and irregular, but the ground (sand or volcanic ash) absorbs the moisture. Temperatures remain fairly constant throughout the year.

The D.O. is comprised of the Geria, Masdache, and Ye-Lajares. White varietals include Malvasia, Pedro Ximénex, Diego, Listán Blanco, Moscatel, Burra Blance, and Breval. The two red varietals are Negramoll and Listán Negro.

Wines from this region are a rarity in the U.S.; I count myself fortunate to have acquired both a red and a white from here. Both wines hail from Bodega Bermejo, located on a farm (“The Bermejos”) situated on the slopes of a volcano bearing the name of the of the best known family members – “Juan Bello.” The 2007 Los Bermejos Malvasia Sec was a rich golden color. Aromas of citrus (reminding me of the island) complement apple and pear fruit on the palate; I paired this beautifully fragrant and delicious wine with foie gras on crostini drizzled with honey. Later the same evening I enjoyed the 2008 Los Bermejos Tinto Carbónico, made from Listán Negro. This extremely fresh wine was light and fruity with wonderful freshness and minerality while exhibiting characteristic flavors of bright red fruit and was enjoyed by itself. All this at only 13.2% alcohol!

These wines are extremely unique and well worth seeking out. At about $25 a bottle they can be special occasion wines or just a treat for yourself!

Life is short. Drink Spanish wine!

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